The View from a Drawbridge

Roman Emperor Diocletian, best known for his brutal persecution of Gnostics and Christians in general, but also for his many wide sweeping positive reforms, had a 20 year run as Emperor which is nothing to sneeze at in that dangerous office. But in 305 AD, he was not feeling well. Not feeling well at all. He was so emaciated he was barely recognizable. In fact, due to his long seclusion during his illness, people had assumed that he was dead. He decided it was time to retire. He became the first Roman Emperor to voluntarily abdicate.

He went back to his homeland, in present day Croatia on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, where he lived in a sumptuous palace that he had started building 12 years previously, and remained there until his death, some say by suicide, in 311 AD.

(This is what the palace looked like when Diocletian was there.)

But here’s where it gets cool. That palace still stands.

After Diocletian’s death, the palace was abandoned for a long, long time, and the area was war torn and many of its citizens abandoned it as well. But in 639 AD, peace was restored and the people came back…and moved right inside the palace. And they never left.

(This is modern Split. As you can see, the people built their homes within the palace walls.)

So, much of the city is the palace now. As you wander through, you can feel the history surrounding you. When you walk the streets, you’re walking the halls of the palace. The market is in the palace basement. It’s truly amazing.

I’m stunned that more people don’t know about this place. If someone told me they could only visit one city in Europe, I’d recommend Split first and foremost.

What follows are some of the photos I took during my visit. I’d love to go back!

   (The peristyle in front of the Cathedral of St. Dominus)

(The iconic bell tower by night.)

(One of the sphynx statues taken from Egypt by Diocletian.)

(The Oculus. When the sun is just right, it fills the room with a rainbow.)

(An original bronze statue of the God Jupiter, considered to be one of the most intact statues of that god still extant from that period.)

(Statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin. People rub his toe for good luck, so the shiny bronze color shines through.)

(The port side wall of the palace as it looks today.)