After having seen the eclipse in Pontiac, Missouri, an easy to overlook but delightfully quiet haven in the Ozarks with a population of 123, Dear Husband and I decided to head down to Eureka Springs, Arkansas. It was my first time in that state, so I was a little trepidatious due to its deep South reputation, but I had heard many good things about Eureka Springs itself, and I looked forward to checking it out. We decided to approach it via Branson, Missouri.
Now, I’m sure there are a lot of Branson, Missouri fans out there. More power to you. Personally, I found this town to be every bit as tacky as Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. Both places are designed specifically to separate you from your money. And neither seems to want to do it in a quality way. Lots of jamborees, reviews, attractions, T-shirt shops and unhealthy food. With all their bright lights, crowds, and desperate attempts to get your attention, both towns plunge me into autism hell. We had planned to spend several hours there. We left as quickly as we could.
Branson is right near the border of Arkansas, so it didn’t take us long to enter that state. The landscape, I must say, is quite attractive, but I quickly discovered that my prejudices about Arkansas were confirmed. I can’t speak for the entire state, of course, but we were definitely driving through Trump-landia. Lots of MAGA signs, confederate flags, churches, and extreme poverty as far as the eye could see. I caught myself praying that our rental car did not break down, and I kept expecting to hear banjos.
But then we entered Eureka Springs, that oasis, that dark blue dot in the middle of a dark red state. For me it was love at first sight. Eureka is from the Greek, and it means, “I have found it!” It’s impossible to say eureka without implying an exclamation point. Eureka Springs, therefore, is aptly named.
On your approach, you descend into a cozy little valley that is full of Victorian houses, small artsy shops, and buildings from the late 1800’s. The confederate flags that assault your eyes during your journey to this place are quickly and adamantly replaced by rainbow flags. There’s a very welcoming vibe. Quirkiness is encouraged. The day after we left, they were to have a UFO conference, which is a 30-year tradition.
Yes, just like Branson, tourism is the primary industry in Eureka Springs. The population of about 2,300 people is joined by approximately 750,000 tourists per year. Every home seems to come with a rental cottage, and yet the residential areas still manage to remain peaceful and quiet, and many people don’t bother to lock their doors. Deer roam the neighborhoods. Chickadees, cardinals, and woodpeckers abound.
We stayed in Belladonna Cottage, an oasis within an oasis. It’s a beautifully decorated, bohemian/hippie style cottage with a nice wide balcony on the upper floor and an expansive garden below. I particularly loved the lamp that looked like a parrot, which could rock on its perch if you pushed it. There were bamboo curtains across the doors. When we arrived, we were treated to the smell of patchouli incense and the sound of Joanie Mitchell on the CD player. Patti, the owner, was a delight. (Go directly to her website for an even better rate than you will get on Airbnb.) That first evening we decided to chill out in the cottage and soak in the ambience.
It was raining the next day, so we decided to visit nearby Cosmic Cavern (the subject of an upcoming blog post), and then drove the many streets of Eureka Springs. There seem to be no right-angled intersections in the area. Streets come at you every which way. This adds to the town’s charm, but it means you need to drive with extreme caution.
We loved seeing the many gingerbread houses, and we were pleased to see that there was a Unitarian Universalist church there. There are also springs everywhere, mostly capped off now, but still quite interesting to look at. (More on the healing waters of Eureka Springs in a subsequent post.) Sculptures and art abound. Even some of the stairways are beautifully painted.
There are very few downsides to this place, but here are two: Being a town of stairs, it’s not exactly wheelchair accessible, and I must admit that I saw very few people of color anywhere in Arkansas. I can’t blame them for wanting to stay away. The treacherous journey to reach Arkansas’ few oases is a risk that may not be worth the effort. But, unlike Branson, Eureka Springs provides you with quality tourism. A lot of History. A lot of natural beauty. Good food. Unique shopping opportunities. I’d love to live there someday.
Travel vicariously through this blog. And while you’re at it, check out my book! http://amzn.to/2mlPVh5
The View from a Drawbridge 