Back in April, I had the distinct pleasure of visiting the state of Arkansas for the first time. I can say it was a pleasure because I spent the bulk of my time in the liberal oasis of Eureka Springs. I first wrote about this in a post entitled The Road to Eureka Springs. That post will give you a sense of the surroundings in which this little town somehow manages to thrive. It will also give you an overview of the town itself. I’ve also written a post about Eureka Springs’ Public Art.
Today, I want to give you just a few snippets of the town’s unique and rather fraught history. The pretty Victorian houses and cute little shops and the picturesque wells and stunning views make this place seem romantic if you’re not disposed to dig deeper. And don’t get me wrong. It is romantic. I hope to go back some day.
But for those who wish to dig deeper, there are an abundance of informational placards scattered through town, and plenty of old pictures to gaze at. But dig deeper still and you find some history that didn’t make it to the placards and gives you pause, but also makes Eureka Springs a lot more intriguing. That dig will make you wonder how they got to the romantic here from the complicated there.
Long before any white man set foot in this area, the Osage, Delaware and Shawnee peoples came to visit its healing springs. Then in 1856, Dr. Alvah Jackson “discovered” the main spring in the area, declared that it had healing properties, and quickly exploited the waters. He built a hospital there, and sold the water in bottles. Soon, spas cropped up everywhere and drew in tourists. It was the destination of choice for those who wished to heal from the Civil War (More about these spas in a later post.)
The town really started to get going right after the Civil War and in the midst of reconstruction, and to this day, the tension between liberal, LGBTQ+ friendly, quirky, artsy Eureka Springs and the virulent hate and racism outside its borders is quite palpable. At one point it even invaded the city limits. After the civil war, African American freedmen flocked to this town, which was said to be open and accepting. But when they arrived, they discovered that they were segregated to one neighborhood, which was unfortunately called “N**ger Town.”
African Americans were not allowed to enter any of the whites-only hotels, so they built several of their own, along with a school and an AME Church. Only one of Eureka’s many springs was open to them. In spite of the many roadblocks placed before them, this neighborhood thrived, but due to Klan activities in the 1920’s and 1930’s, it went into decline, and in fact I did not see a single face of color the whole time I was there.
If we hadn’t taken a historical tour, we wouldn’t have even known this neighborhood once existed. The tour guide timidly glossed over that dark time in the town’s history, all with a nervous smile on her face. It made me sad. If you want to hear more details about this era, there’s a two part documentary that you can listen to called Arkansas Ozarks African Americans: 1820 to 1950.
That tour guide mentioned above also showed us a tiny part of Eureka Springs’ underground. Just like in Seattle, the town used to be much lower. Because of that, the streets were often choked with mud. In fact, the town’s main street was once named Mud Street, and there’s still a café with that name.
To solve their muddy problem, large swaths of the downtown city streets were eventually raised up, thus turning the lower floor of many of its buildings into an underground. Also like Seattle, these hidden places became a warren of crime and prostitution and were eventually closed off. But a few pieces of it remain if you know where to look.
Eureka Springs is also the home of the aptly named Hatchet Hall, which was the last house owned by Carrie Nation, the infamous hatchet-wielding member of the Temperance Movement who chopped her way through many a saloon at the beginning of the 20th century. Toward the end of her life she moved to Eureka Springs, causing many of the area bars to post signs that said, “All nations welcome except Carrie.” In 1911, while giving a speech downtown, she collapsed and lapsed into a coma. She was then taken to a hospital in Leavenworth, Kansas, where she died months later.
After her death, the newest addition that had been built onto Hatchet Hall was torn down, and the wood was used to build Flint Street Fellowship, whose website says it’s “a faith-based ministry providing groceries, nourishing lunches, clothing, utility/rent/transportation assistance, resource information and fellowship.” Despite her controversial history, I suspect Carrie would be quite pleased. Her advocacy in action was very flawed, but, love her or hate her, her primary desire was to help people.
What a fascinating and conflicted place. As a bonus, I’m throwing in a few non-historical bits n’ bobs that didn’t really constitute a post of their own. If you ever get a chance to visit Eureka Springs:
- Be sure and try some pizza at the Skybar Gourmet Pizza place on the top floor of the 1886 Crescent Hotel and Spa. Its art deco decor will send you back in time. The pizza is phenomenal, and the views are even better.
- And as you pass through the absolutely gorgeous lobby of that hotel, say hello to Jasper, the black cat that has full run of the place, and seems quite indifferent to the hubbub. You can even buy plush black cats in the gift shop.
- If you’re in town on a Thursday night, you can enjoy live blues music at The Gravel Bar at Wanderoo Lodge. (That’s if you’re not around for the annual Blues Party that the town has in late May/early June.)
- And very close to town, be sure and check out the Thorncrown Chapel, which is a stunning edifice that you’ll enjoy sitting in no matter what your spiritual beliefs may be (or not be).
Eureka Springs does have a complicated history, but that adds to its character. Ultimately, in the present day, it’s a charming, welcoming place full of open-minded people. It’s a pity that you have to go through a lot of territory that doesn’t hold those values in order to get to it. Still, it’s well worth a visit.
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